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Dayara Bugyal – Is it the most beautiful meadow in India?
This is a debate that refuses to die. When trekkers discuss amongst themselves about the most beautiful meadow in India – Dayara Bugyal is often placed at the top position only to be hotly contested and pushed to the next best. But there is no debate amongst trekkers that Dayara Bugyal would fall within the two most beautiful high altitude meadows in India.
It is not difficult to see why. For hundred of years shepherds from far have been taking their flock to graze at Dayara. They have come back with stories of the abundance of grass and splendor of the mighty Himalayan mountain peaks cradling the meadows. They described the place with such intensity that soon word about Dayara Bugyal reached explorers.
When the explorers got back from their treks to Dayara Bugyal, they came back profoundly affected. The meadows were exactly as the shepherds had described them – but only more beautiful. The mountains they talked about were the Bhagirathi peaks, Bandarpoonch, Black peak and scores of other peaks they could not name. They discovered clear water bodies strewn across the green meadows – in whose reflection the peaks looked even more beautiful. Flowers sprung up around streams and brooks that ran across the meadows.
Dayara Bugyal along with its twin Gidara Bugyal is perhaps one of the most beautiful alpine meadows in India. The meadows stretch out far and wide and all around the meadows are the many towering snow peaks. The trek showcases some of the best scenery the Himalayas have to offer. The Bugyals and the sky around with their every changing hue can show you new scenery at every season of the year.
The trek starts from the tiny village of Barsu tucked away on the Haridwar – Gangothri road 32 kms away the town of UttarKashi. Barsu houses about 90 homes and has a GMVN overlooking the village on one side and the mountains on the other. The GMVN serves as a good base camp for the trek. The rooms are neat and spacious and the view in front is lovely.
Day 1: Barsu to Dayara Bugyal 7400 ft to 11050 ft (4-5 hours)
Alt gain: 3500 ft, 7kms Via Baranala easly to moderate climb with some stiff stretches in between.
The Barnala and Dayara ridges can be seen right from the lawns of GMVN at Barsu. Barnala a small meadow is on top of the first ridge. Take the pathway that goes besides the wall of the GMVN passing the village fields. The fields give way to trees in ten minutes of the climb. The trees, a mix of local deciduous varieties, Oak and Rhododendron create a beautiful mix of colors when their leaves glisten in the morning sun.
The tree cover is sparse initially with a number of clearings in between. Take a peep at the mountains in front and notice them getting bigger as you gain height. Half an hour into the moderately ascending trail brings you to a Herbal garden maintained by the govt. Pass besides the garden and in twenty more minutes you are at the last clearing on the route to Barnala. The place is called as Mathi Hoda which means last clearing.
The forest cover thickens beyond this and from Spring to Autumn, the foliage of the trees is thick enough to hide the sky above.
Climb up on the well laid out stone track to the ridge line which is an hour away.
At the ridge line the trail gently slopes down. A couple of minutes later, come up the Gujjar huts and a big clearing. Tall pine trees circle the periphery of the clearing. The trail goes along the side of the clearing climbing up a small mound at one end. Get on top of the mound and look back. Notice that the skyline has broadened and many more peaks have made their appearance. Run up and in less than five minutes begin the meadows of Barnala.
Barnala is a tree lined meadow which converts into a ski slope during the winter months. At the left corner of the meadow is the Barnala lake. Take a break by the lake watching the reflection of the Oak trees in the water.
Dayara Bugyal is on top of the ridgeline seen from Barnala. Walk across the meadow and enter the tree line again. Do not forget to turn around to see the views behind as you walk. The climb up the second ridge line is a steeper than the first. The path is still well laid out and it is hard to miss your way through it. An hour and a half’s climb brings you to the end of the tree line and the meadow begins right there. Climb up a couple of mounds and turn around to see the views. On one side are the new entries, never seen till now – the Bandar Poonch and Black peak.
On the other side are the mountains which were with you till now, their numbers have increased. The view stretches out now to 180 degrees and more. The Dayara Bugyal meadow stretches out far and wide ahead, but the camping areas are limited to the fringes of the Bugyal where there are good sources of water.
Continue to trek along the right fringes of the meadow with the tree line just below. The trek to the camp site is like a preview to the views in store for the next few days. Capture in your minds and memories, the Bugyals dipping and raising, the skyline around and the long shadows in the golden evening sun.
Pass the Gujjar huts which come up on your left and in less than 500 meters, a shady enclosure of Oak and pine trees with a clearing in the center is seen. A couple of small streams flow on either sides through the year. Make this your campsite. Collect fallen branches and logs from the Oak trees around light a good fire to warm the chilly night.
Optional Day 2: Dayara Camp site 11000ft to Bakaria Top 12500ft and back to camp site exploring the Bugyal. 6kms 5 – 6 hours
Dayara Bugyal’s expanse deserves a day for exploration. Set aside a day if you can for a complete exploration of the meadow going all the way to Bakaria top and back. Head up from the camp site and gain some height on the meadows. Move up heading right and traverse through the many sections of the meadows. A short stiff climb up takes you to the top of a ridge called as Moosa Dhangi. Moosa Dhangi gets its name because of the abundance of rats once found in the burrows there. There is another ridge line to climb after Moosa Dhangi and make the Bandar Poonch a prominent subject of your photographs from here.
All through your explorations, be on the silent look out for various wild life that can be on the prowl. It is not uncommon to catch glimpses of the mountain cat – looks like a small fox or the mountain deer whose foot prints often spotted on patches of snow.
Get down from Moosa Dhangi and go up the next ridge. The Bakaria top is visible and is 3 hill tops away. Follow the ridge line and negotiate each hill top until reaching the last and the highest – The Bakaria top. The ridge line exposes the other side of Dayara Bugyal. Spot the village of Agoda – on the route of the Dodital trek. The Sangam Chetti – Agoda- Dodital – Dayra Bugyal trek route reached Dayara Bugyal here.
The Bakaria top is the highest point of Dayara Bugyal and is at one corner of the meadow. On one side see the mountains and the entire Dayara meadow spread out while on the other see the hills coming up in layers. Spot the town of Uttarkashi nestled deep down amidst the hills in the south. Spend time basking in the sun and wind with the views on the Bakaria top. The descent takes a couple of hours with the route going straight down avoiding the ridge walk. Several streams which run dry during the non rainy months are found on the way down. Dwarf Rhododendrons are the common shrubs found on the mountain sides. The path is narrow but is easily spotted. Sticking to the trail is not necessary as long as you head in the general direction of the camp site.
Day 3 Dayara Camp site to Pichkiya. 11000ft to 95000ft. Moderate ascent, ridge walks followed by steep descent. 10kms 7 hours
The trail from Dayar Bugyal to Pichkiya has variety to stay with you as one of the best days of the trek. Leave your camp site early to give you time to spend time en-route where the views make you halt every 500 meters.
The days trek leaves behind the bugyal and goes on to the ridgeline seen right at the camp site beneath the Bandarpoonch massif. At the end of the ridge is where the descent to the Pichkiya camp site starts.
Take the stiff climb up the Oak cluster just above the camp site to land on the right side of the meadows. Traverse the meadows moving right and head to the right end of the meadows. The end of the medows is maked by a small trail entering the shrubby mountain side. The trail descends gently into the vegetation and after 20 minutes ends up in a clearing called as Devkund. Devkund has no lake as the name suggests but is just a clearing with a dilapidated Gujjar hut. The views of the mountains that ended with the Bugyal reappear again. The trail climbs up from Devkund to re-enter the meadows again. At the end of the climb, the meadows begin and Bandarpoonch massif makes a grand entry again. The meadows are not spread out wide here but make green ridge line for miles ahead with several twists and turns.
The trail goes just below the ridge line with only the left side of the valley exposed to you. Fifteen minutes ahead the trail bends right and with it appear the mountains on the eastern sky again. The trail enters a clump of Oak trees briefly before ending up at the base of steep mound. Approach the steep climb with a steady pace and notice that it gets over in less than 15 minutes. You are now on top of the ridge line that was visible from the Dayara Camp site. The Agoda village and the trail to Dodital are visible again. The ridge trail splits a little ahead. The one curving right heads to the end of the ridge and then to Pichkiya, whereas the one heading straight goes on to another beautiful meadow – Gidara Bugyal.
Gidara is a higher meadow which is about 18kms away from Dayara Bugyal. Gidara is wider in expanse and is closer to the Bandarpoonch Massif. Gidara is a lot less frequented but its beauty given the expanse and views is widely spoken.
Head on the top of the ridge on the trail curving right till you reach the end of the ridge. The walk is mesmerizing. The entire Dayara Bugyal can be seen on the opposite side. Bandarpoonch is behind you and the other ranges in front of you. It’s a rare walk. Take is slow and easy for after this is the descent to Pichkiya and the views disappear as you enter the woods. At the last point of the ridge, the route you took upto Dayara on the way up is visible. The Barnala meadows, the lake, the Gujjar huts are all seen from a birds eye view.
The descent to Pichkiya begins where the ridge ends. Descend heading left. The grass gives way to the Oak forests after twenty minutes. Follow the trail through the Oak trees and in an hour and a half, the trail opens up to a clearing.This is Pichkiya. The Gangothri peaks, Jonli, Draupadi ka Danda peaks all appear in front. A clear stream flows in the middle and this is a good place to camp for the night.
Day 4: Pichkiya to Barsu 3kms 2.5 hours 9500ft to 7500ft
The descent from Pichkiya to Barsu is easy, quick and scenic. Follow the marked trail amidst varieties of Pines, Oak, Maple and other deciduous trees. Its an easy descent and after an hour there is a surprising sound of rushing water. As you wonder where it is coming from and walk under the shade of the trees a small waterfall is seen ahead. There is a rickety bridge over the stream. It looks easy but walking over it can give a novice trekker a mild flutter in the heart. The locals find it no different from walking over plain land.
A mild ascent follows and in fifteen minutes the forest ends. You are right above Barnala now. The Barsu village, the GMVN guest house, the roads, the mountains are all seen. Take a break here. It’s the end of a beautiful trek and back to civilization soon from here. The trail descends from here through Rhododendrons as it enters the lanes of the Barsu village. Walk past the village through the brightly painted houses and you are at the point where you started the trek.
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