Trek blogs
Why the Chadar frozen river trek is not as difficult as it is made out to be


Chadar trek


Why the Chadar frozen river trek is


not as difficult as it is made out to be


Arjun Majumdar talks about why the Chadar frozen river trek is not as difficult as it looks. He also talks about why the expense of the Chadar trek makes it out of reach of most Indians.




The frozen river trek in Zanskar Ladakh in winter is supposed to be one of the toughest treks in the world. It is easy to see why.

 

It is a 7 day trek in inhospitable conditions. It is a winter trek over a frozen river in Ladakh. Average mean temperature during the day is minus 15. In the night temperatures fall to minus 25 and 30. The desolate trek is over the ever changing Chadar frozen river. Ice forms, breaks and changes colour on the river every few hours. At places the Chadar (or ice) does not form over the river. Trekkers have to forge a new trail climbing over snow covered steep rocky banks of the river to again descend to a spot on the river where the ice is more stable.

 

Travel magazines worldwide show incredible pictures of Buddhist monks walking bare feet on the frozen river. The Discovery and the National Geographic channels have both made films on the Chadar trek. Suddenly, Chadar is a difficult but a glamorous trek to do.

 

Anyone who gets back from the Chadar trek adds to the aura around it by talking about the conditions in a revering way.

 

The truth is that the conditions on the Chadar trek are something that is not difficult to beat. Temperatures in minus feel cold when you are not protected from the elements. This can be countered with multi layered clothing and a very fit body. Five layers of clothing still feel cold but not colder than Delhi in winter. A fit body copes with intense cold lot more than an untrained body. A flexible body can tackle some of the rough terrain that comes in the way.

 

If you take away the cold and the harshness of the terrain, Chadar is not a difficult trek terrain wise. It is an almost flat walk with some ups and downs. The terrain rarely makes you go breathless.

 

But Chadar, for most people, is a trek that is almost out of reach for another reason. The Chadar trek is expensive.

 

Why Chadar is an expensive trek

 

Of all the treks in India, Chadar is the most expensive trek you will do. For example, even by Indiahikes standard, the Chadar trek comes to Rs 19,950 per person. Now what makes Chadar such an expensive trek? I spent some time finding out.

 

First, I found labor is expensive. Porter rates more than double in winter. And for a winter expedition you need more than the usual number of porters – just to carry the winter gears. Next, sourcing equipment is expensive in winter. Even mattresses cost Rs 100 a day to rent. But the biggest killer is food and fuel. Every food item has to be flown to Ladakh in winter. The government subsidizes food to an extent that is unbelievable. Even after the subsidy, food costs more than treble in winter. Fuel, like kerosene is frightfully expensive and worse, you need them in ample quantity just to stay warm. In the extreme cold cooking takes three times longer and naturally the fuel consumed is high. Another hidden killer I discovered is the stay in Leh. Hotels are mostly shut. Those that are open cost abnormally high – with central heating. A two day stay in Leh is 25% of the trek cost. Finally, considering the icy conditions a trek team to Chadar cannot be big to spread the costs. A team of 10-12 trekkers is considered very large. The inability to spread the cost of the trek over a larger number of trekkers increases the overall cost of the trek too.

 

For those venturing out to the Chadar on the Indiahikes exploratory trek, my only advice is to prepare for the trek and not to treat it as any other trek. The rewards from this trek are plenty to take – the white winter scenery in the Chadar canyons is once in a life-time experience. Experiencing this marvel is something people travel all over the world to witness. I hate to admit, but Chadar is actually a very glamorous trek to do.
 
The Indiahikes team for the Chadar trek this winter is by invitation only. To get an invite for the trek click on this link: 

Chadar Trek Invitation


 
 
Why you need to go on a trek date before getting married

Treks


Why you need to go on a trek date before getting married

 

Arjun Majumdar talks about how a trek helps in making a better choice of  a life partner.

 

 

Most couples who are thinking of getting married waste an enormous amount of time dating each other over expensive cups of coffee in the hope that they’ll get to know each other better.

I have bad news for you. You won’t.

In an artificial setting like a coffee shop, restaurant or a park, you only talk. Yet, we spend most of our married life doing things – making breakfast, going to office, sending the kids to school. And in doing these ordinary tasks we display our love, respect and consideration towards one other. It cements our bond and our marriage becomes stronger.

A trek date is an excellent way to check if your partner possesses qualities to make a marriage work. On a long trek – preferably over 5-6 days – the mask of the city wears off quickly and the real person surfaces. It makes sense to keenly observe this real person.

Here are a few points for you to observe:

 

  1. Is your partner capable of sticking to the discipline of a trek? A trek requires discipline in schedule, preparation and routine. So does life.
  2. Does your partner complain? A Himalayan trek is not easy. If your partner finds fault with things – from the difficulty of the terrain, to the quality of food; to the conditions of your tent, your partner is a whiner. If you have a complaining partner, your life is going to be similar.
  3. Does your partner cooperate? Like a trek, life is a series of cooperation – at home and work. If your partner cooperates with most situations it speaks of a healthy mind and heart.
  4. Does your partner make the best of situations? On a trek times will come when things go out of control. What does your partner do in such situations? Show frustration and complain or try to make the best of the situation? You need a life partner who can deal with bad situations in a cool and composed manner. A dose of humor is a bonus.
  5. Does your partner mingle and mix? When at camp does your partner spend time talking with others and learning from them or does your partner like to be alone. All of us like to be left alone at times – but mingling with others is part of our social world.
  6. Does your partner show consideration to the world? Does your partner pick up fallen chocolate wrappers on the trek? Does your partner have a kind word and gesture towards the guides and porters? A considerate partner is far more important in life than a loving partner.
  7. Does your partner ask people (however sweetly) to get things like tea, warm water, or dinner? It takes an effort to head to the kitchen for these things – but it also shows a human being who is self sufficient – someone who doesn’t order people around. A partner who orders is a menace for the future.

 

I hope these pointers will help you choose your partner wisely. Going on a “Trek Date” is a new way of seeing the most important person in your life. 

Trek Dates are becoming increasingly popular among the urban youth. It is easy to see why. Trek Dates help unmarried young men and women find life partners. They get to meet prospective partners and also check their compatibility in real life situations – something modern coffee shops don’t allow. It is a welcome way of thinking. 

 
 

Roopkund trek

Photo: Saurabh Chatterjee

Roopkund Vs Rupin Pass -- which is a better trek?

 


Arjun Majumdar finally chooses one of the two beautiful treks as a better one.

 


Arjun Indiahikes

This is a question that I am asked often – and one I find very difficult to answer. It is so hard to choose between the two great treks that to be safe I have always stuck to a middle path. I have pointed out the pros and cons of both Roopkund and Rupin Pass but consciously never taken a stand on either of them. I don’t think I have made many friends this way.


So finally, for the first time I am going to choose one of them as a better trek. My choice may come as a surprise to many and I would love to read your comments.


First some background on why both are great treks.


To me Roopkund is priceless for two reasons. I have never seen high altitude meadows as beautiful as they are at Ali and Bedni Bugyal. Yes, there are other great high altitude meadows in our country, but the way Ali and Bedni Bugyal reveal themselves, a layer at a time makes them unique. Take for example, when you pop out into Ali Bugyal just at the end of your climb from the Didina oak forest. A minute earlier you were in the darkness of the oak forest and suddenly a lushness of green opens up that puts any golf course to shame.


When you crest Ali Bugyal, more of the meadows reveal themselves, this time stretching in a giant arc ahead of you. White mountain peaks jut out from the green edges of the meadows. By the time you reach Bedni Bugyal and camp beside the still waters of the Bedni Kund, surrounded in the greenery, even the die hard trekker who has seen it all bucks down to what nature can show.


Roopkund trek

Photo: Arig Chakraborty


The second thing that makes Roopkund priceless is the adventure on snow. At 15,000 during any time of the year the Roopkund flank is almost always covered in snow. Inching your way, climbing the flank to reach Roopkund is a thrill that lingers many years after you have completed the trek. It is no surprise I have found many breaking down in tears when they have reached Roopkund, such is the sense of accomplishment.


The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand has three great things going for me.


The first is the surprises on the trek. Every day, every hour the scenery changes to reveal a new sight. I have documented a few here (12 Surprising twists on the Rupin pass trek), but I assure you this is not a complete list.


The second delectable thing about the Rupin Pass trek is the Dhanderas Thatch campsite. It is probably one of the most exquisite Himalayas has to offer. Snuggled at the bottom of a perfect “U” shaped glacial valley – it lies on the bed of a lush green meadow. From your view at the bottom of the meadow, snow patched cliffs tower on all three sides. In front, the Rupin cascades down from the snowy Dhauladar range for over two thousand feet through snow bridges to form the famous Rupin water fall. I have to admit, the Saruwas Thatch, Upper water fall, Rati Phere and Ronti Gad campsites also give the Dhanderas Thatch campsite a run for its money. They are as pretty and many trekkers would debate about them as well.


rupin pass trek

Photo: Sandhya UC


The third thing that I love about the Rupin Pass trek is the pass crossing day. The alpine setting is so stunning that it takes time to absorb the vision of snow 360 degrees around you. As the trail goes around bends of the mountain side, over snow fields, over snow ridges and finally comes to rest at the bottom of the gully that leads to Rupin Pass, it is difficult not to feel overpowered by the occasion. The climb through the gully to the narrow Rupin pass and the glissading descent on the other side to the Sangla valley is moments that freeze in time.


So which of the two – Roopkund or Rupin Pass do I choose as the better trek?


Well, it is tough one, but I finally choose the Rupin Pass. For two reasons: While the Roopkund trek has its “beauty” quotient, Rupin Pass always gets me for its surprises and variety.


It is like this. Roopkund is like an art house movie. Everything is classy about it. It is perfect in every way – perfect oak forests, perfect meadows and perfect alpine settings. The Rupin Pass trek on the other hand is like a bollywood blockbuster with its masala. There are long stretches and there are short walks. There are dense forests and there are open tracts. There are quaint villages which are centuries old and there is modernity. There is a lot going on all the time with its sudden scenery changes. And like a blockbuster it ends in a flourish with a thrilling pass climb. While class has its place, the commoner always loves a masala trek. That’s why for me the Rupin Pass is a better trek.


For the first time I have voiced my opinion on two treks that I love dearly. I know my choice of Rupin Pass will not go down with the Roopkund fans. I wait for your comments.
 

 

 

For complete trek information:

www.roopkund.com

www.rupinpass.com

.

 
...








...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
...
...

 

 
...
...
 
Why Goechala in Sikkim is a most romantic trek
Monday, 07 March 2011 11:34


Arjun Majumdar writes about the Goechala trek and tells why  it is one of the most romantic trails in the country. 


Goechala sunrise point or the first view point at 15100ft


I have never been as enamored by a trek as I have been of the Goechala. It is the most romantic trek that I have done.


There are lots in the trek that make it romantic.


On a long stretch between Tshoka and Phedang the trail climbs under a canopy of red rhododendrons in full bloom. Never have I seen a trail turning red the way it did on this trek. It was as if the trail was on fire! Rhododendrons bloomed in every direction I looked. Even the sunlight that seeped in was red through the filter of the flowers!


There are a couple of other romantic moments from the Goechala trek that come to my mind.


At 15,000 feet, standing on the ledge of a mountain at five in the morning, I was as close to Mt Kanchenjunga as you can possibly get without climbing it. I had been trekking since three in the morning. Staring up at the summit of the third highest mountain of the world, the night slowly started to give way to day. On my right was the inky blackness of night with the moon still bright. On my left, magically out of the dawn sky, a sunbeam touched the summit of Kanchenjunga. In the golden light a plume of snow blew off the summit. Silhouetted in the dark background of the late night, watching the summit of Mt Kanchenjunga light up still stands as the most romantic sunrise of my life.


I learn these days that the spot is called sunrise point. Back when I did the trek it had no name. Trekkers just stopped there at five in the morning to witness this magic.


On the Goechala trek the 14,000 feet Samiti lake is another romantic spot that haunts me. When I reached Samiti the unusual deep blue waters of the lake startled me. I could never imagine waters with such colours. Stepping closer to the shore, I thought the colours would disperse. I was wrong. Even five feet from the shore the colour of the water was the same turquoise blue. Like a swimming pool I could clearly see through the deep blue waters to the bottom of the lake. I stood for a long time mesmerized by the romance of the place.


That night, I woke up at two (we had to leave at three for Goechala) and walked to the shore of the lake. In the rarified air, the moon shone brighter than ever. On the surface of the still dark waters of the Samiti lake was the full reflection of Mt Pandim. I could see every snowy fold of the mountain in that reflection. Emotions overcame me and tears welled in my eyes. For the first time on a trek I wished I had a company to share this moment.


The Goechala trek is filled with romantic moments like these: The glacial valley of Thansing, the quaint village of Bakhim, the walk from Dzongri to Kockchurang – it just goes on.


Indiahikes teams are trekking to Goechala in the month May. Take advantage of this expedition to experience a truly romantic trail – the kind of which you will not see again. The mountains in Sikkim are very different. Take a look at the Goechala website for more details.
 
More Articles...
<< Start < Prev 1 2 3 Next > End >>

Page 2 of 3