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Musings of an Independent (Solo) Trekker – “You do your best and trust God to do the rest”
Sathya Venakatachari is an IT professional and a trekker. Satya is unique because he is one of the rare trekkers who treks solo in the Himalayas.
My definition of A Solo/Independent : This is a trek where the trekker is self-contained in all aspects of the trek for the entire duration of the trek.
There are a few key aspects when it comes to being self-sufficient on a trek :
Self-sufficiency and Fitness
First let us look at some key items that would be in the independent trekker’s backpack.
- Food : Say for 3-4 days or to get to a place where one can replenish food supplies
- Fuel : Petrol/Kerosene to cook food for about a week
- Utensils : Plates/Spoon/Vessel to cook food in
- Clothing : There needs to be sufficient warm clothing (assuming you are trekking in the mountains). However, this is one aspect where one has to be really selective if one wants to travel light. My thumb rule is that if it is not needed for survival you don’t need it in your backpack
- Tent : 1-2 man 3 / 4 season’s tent
- Sleeping Mat
- Sleeping Bag
- Water bottle / hydration pack
Choosing a Trail
The next aspect of an independent trek is identifying a trail that meets your criteria. Some trekkers like the popular/established trekking routes while others prefer the routes less explored. Personally, most important for me is to determine whether the trail would be easy to find. When I say easy, I mean that if I have a good trekking map, I should be able to find the trail by looking at footprints, animal droppings, track, stone cairns and the general lay of the land.
Some research of the terrain is also critical as this (along with the season) would determine the kind of equipment one would need to carry. For example does one expect landslides, scree, boulder zone, river crossings, snow/ice/crevasses. Depending on this one may need to take rope/ice-axes/crampons/snow-shoes. The challenge when one has to carry a lot of equipment is that your backpack becomes too heavy to carry yourself. Then one would need to hire a porter. If the trail is too fraught with danger (say crevasses) or not easily identifiable then one would need to employ the services of a local guide. If one employs the services of a guide/porter then some would say that you are no longer trekking solo -J. So one really needs to choose the trail carefully.
Personally, to avoid guides/porters I prefer somewhat established trails.
Choosing the Season
The season (time of the year) for doing the trek is another important factor. It determines whether one can even do the trek. Some trails are closed in winter (especially the high altitude passes) and some are not suitable in the rainy season. The choice of season determines the kind of views you might get.
Arranging the Permits
This is one of the annoyances one has to prepare for before the trek. Some treks require no permits, for others it is easy to get. For some the amount of red-tapism and bureaucracy one has to endure is unimaginable.
Flexibility
One of the keys to enjoy my travel in the Himalayas is to travel without time constraints (something difficult to imagine for folks in the corporate world). What I mean by this is that in the mountains one has to learn to submit oneself and enjoy the vagaries of Mother Nature. Irrespective of your best planning there may be delays, say because you are snowed in for days together. There may be cases where despite your best preparation (fitness/equipment) you may just not be able to reach your destination. Say for example there is a river crossing and the river is in full flow and crossing it seems dangerous, then one has to be prepared to wait it out or even abort the crossing and retrace ones path. Though aborting a trek , without a sense of failure/disappointment, is easier said than done -J , it is wiser to live so that one can attempt to cross this hurdle another time.
Benefits of solo/independent trekking
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Pre-trek preparation/Fitness : One takes care that he/she is really fit/prepared to do the trek both physically and mentally as you know that there is no one to help you in case you are trouble during the trek.
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Differentiating between wants/needs for the trek : Knowing that you have to carry your own backpack you will start differentiating between your wants and your needs very easily. You will be surprised at how little you actually need.
- Knowledge/Study of the trail/terrain & logistics : A person who travels independently has more knowledge & does more research about the trail, how to reach it, what permits are required and what logistical arrangements are required than one who is going through an organized trek.
- Sense of accomplishment : The sense of accomplishment on doing an independent travel is far greater than an organized trek and is something that needs to be experienced.
- Discovering Yourself : One gets to discover ones own limits and is surprised by the extent to which your mind and body can push itself, especially when faced with adversity. As you travel alone when you are fatigued you will find reserves of energy which you never knew, existed within you. Once you experience this I found that it is something that can benefit you in other aspects of life.
- Risk analysis/Decision Making/ Planning : Your risk taking/risk analysis, decision making and planning skills are tested everyday. The stakes are high as it is your life at stake. If you don’t make the right decision you have only yourself to blame and no one else.
- Belief in Fate (God for non-believers)/ Nature : One’s appreciation of Nature (call it God if you will) and the realization of how much one depends of fate increases. It reaches a new high.
Finally, a few question I have often been asked.
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Is it not dangerous to travel alone ?
Yes it is dangerous to trek alone. If you have a friend/partner who would travel with you do go with them.
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What happens if you are injured or if you fall sick ?
If you are travelling alone and are injured or fall sick it is a risky business. If it is a frequented trail you may get assistance and if it is not a frequented trail then you would have to bear the pain and fight through your sickness. Luckily, for me I have not encountered this situation and thank god for it.
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What happens if you find wild animals on the trail ?
Of course wild animals can attack on trails
- Don’t you feel afraid when you camp alone ?
Not really
Due to the above reasons is why I am of the opinion as you trek solo your faith/belief increases. So I conclude this section by saying “You do your best and trust God to do the rest”
Sahib-Style Trekking
Here is a counter-view for the “Independent Style Trekking”.
I ask myself “Why do you trek ?”
The principal reasons are to enjoy nature and to enjoy the walk. If those are the objectives and if I can afford it why not achieve the above objectives with luxury and comfort. That is what “Sahib Style” trekking essentially is.
“Sahib Style” trekking achieves the above objectives without the additional challenges (pains if you will) of “independent style treks”.
The following are some of the key characteristics of “Sahib Style Trekking” :-
- Porters/Mules to carry your luggage
- Guides to show you the way
- Cook to ensure that you have tasty, nutritious and timely food along your way (often with desserts included)
- A dining tent where you sit comfortably in a spacious tent replete with tables and chairs
- A Kitchen tent where the cook & his staff (often comprising a helper or two) cook hot meals for you. Sometimes the staff even carries gas cylinders for use in the kitchen
- A spacious tent for you having a sleeping mat, warm sleeping bags and in some cases I have seen a layer or two of quilt blankets/comforters
- Besides the standard medical kit often the trekking agency would provide for an oxygen cylinder for larger trekking groups in a high-altitude trek. This oxygen cylinder would get carried by a porter who accompanies the trekking group (walking along with them)
- Guides would go to the extent of carrying their clients on their backs if you find a particular stretch (say a stream crossing) tough to negotiate
- There is enough safety equipment like rope/harness/carabiners (in case you need to cross a stream etc). Note that I am talking about trekking and not mountaineering expeditions where all of this is mandatory
- Throw in a bonfire at night
Now, you probably have a good picture of what I am talking about.
The big question is what does this do your trekking experience ?
Well there are 2 ways of looking at it :-
- One view is that it allows the trekker to enjoy the trekking experience, enjoy nature, walk , spend a lot of time capturing nature’s beauty in his/her camcoders/cameras without the inherent risks/discomforts/challenges of “independent style trekking”.
- Another view is that it by taking away the inherent risks/discomforts/challenges of “independent style trekking” it takes away a lot from the trekking experience and gives one a reduced sense of accomplishment.
Irrespective of which view one subscribes to there are definitely a few non-debatable benefits to “Sahib Style trekking” :-
- It gives you good local company (porters/guides) resulting in a better understanding and appreciation of the local knowledge/culture/customs and practices.
- It helps infuse finance into the hands of the local community better (especially if you arrange for the porters/guides directly as opposed through a trekking agency).
- It keeps you away from the “Red-tapism” and “Organisational hassles” of getting permits
However, as you will all agree, there are no “Free lunches” in this world. All this comes at a price. The cost of an organized trek is often 3-5 times (sometimes more) that of an independent trek. The magnitude of the difference(compared to independent trek) is a factor of the size of your group (in an organized trek), the level of comforts (from the above list) that you seek.
What is my view on “Sahib Style Trekking” vs “Independent Trekking” ?
Well, I prefer to do my treks within a budget and I also prefer solitude during my treks. So, I definitely prefer the independent style of trek. I also like being self-sufficient, carrying my own backpack and finding the route on my own (where possible). However, when route finding is going to be very difficult then I would prefer to employ the services of a guide (who could also double as a part time porter/cook).
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Why the underrated Winter Snow Camp needs mention
 Arjun Majumdar writes: The winter snow trek and skiing camp in Manali is the most underrated program in our calendar. I can see why.
People are generally confused about what they are going to be doing at the camp. Even the name “camp” makes people feel that it is for children. Far from being for children, the winter camp is perhaps one of the best holidays you’ll do in your life.
Here are a few reasons why:
1. First, the location. The camp is conducted at Kothi, 13 kms off Manali on the way to the Rothang Pass. Set in the midst of thick pine forest, with snow all around, staying at the camp is reason enough to do the program. Here is a picture of the Indiahikes base camp.
2. The camp is divided into two activities: treks and ski training – and that’s why it is called a camp – because it involves training. I am always amazed at the amount of skiing skills people pick at a short time. Here is a video of people skiing by the time the camp is over – it is bit of a fun video with people falling all over – but you’ll get an idea.
3. The treks near Kothi and then to Gulaba and Patalsu are vintage snow treks. The forests are thick and the snow virgin. The snow at places is waist high – and they have never been set foot on before. Making the first footsteps on fresh snow is a feeling that even poets find hard to describe.
4. The Patalsu peak trek is something that I won’t forget easily. Climbing to 12,500 feet to the Patalsu summit and watching the entire Kullu Manali valley covered in white is has left me wondering if there can be better sights to see in our Himalayas.
5. I hate to say this but the cost is an attraction too. The winter camp costs Rs 8950 per person. In winter just staying in Manali for 7 days would cost more than this. The Rs 8950 of the winter camp includes training fee, ski equipment (incidentally, each ski set with boots costs Rs 40,000), stay, all meals and local transport. Add to this the presence of Arti Gupta and her team as your trainers – frankly, it is madness not to do this camp.
The camp is not difficult but it does require a fit body. So prepare your body a bit before venturing for the camp.
The winter camp starts January 22, just when the snow is right and sufficient. We don’t do this camp every season. So take the opportunity and spend some grand moments in snow land -- especially if you are new to the world of trekking and camping. I would also strongly recommend this for husbands who want to introduce their wives to a new world of the outdoors.
To see all details of the Winter Camp visit the Winter Camp website www.wintercamp.indiahikes.in
To register for the Winter Camp click: Winter Camp Registration
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Why the Chadar frozen river trek is not as difficult as it is made out to be |
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Why the Chadar frozen river trek is
not as difficult as it is made out to be
 Arjun Majumdar talks about why the Chadar frozen river trek is not as difficult as it looks. He also talks about why the expense of the Chadar trek makes it out of reach of most Indians.
The frozen river trek in Zanskar Ladakh in winter is supposed to be one of the toughest treks in the world. It is easy to see why.
It is a 7 day trek in inhospitable conditions. It is a winter trek over a frozen river in Ladakh. Average mean temperature during the day is minus 15. In the night temperatures fall to minus 25 and 30. The desolate trek is over the ever changing Chadar frozen river. Ice forms, breaks and changes colour on the river every few hours. At places the Chadar (or ice) does not form over the river. Trekkers have to forge a new trail climbing over snow covered steep rocky banks of the river to again descend to a spot on the river where the ice is more stable.
Travel magazines worldwide show incredible pictures of Buddhist monks walking bare feet on the frozen river. The Discovery and the National Geographic channels have both made films on the Chadar trek. Suddenly, Chadar is a difficult but a glamorous trek to do.
Anyone who gets back from the Chadar trek adds to the aura around it by talking about the conditions in a revering way.
The truth is that the conditions on the Chadar trek are something that is not difficult to beat. Temperatures in minus feel cold when you are not protected from the elements. This can be countered with multi layered clothing and a very fit body. Five layers of clothing still feel cold but not colder than Delhi in winter. A fit body copes with intense cold lot more than an untrained body. A flexible body can tackle some of the rough terrain that comes in the way.
If you take away the cold and the harshness of the terrain, Chadar is not a difficult trek terrain wise. It is an almost flat walk with some ups and downs. The terrain rarely makes you go breathless.
But Chadar, for most people, is a trek that is almost out of reach for another reason. The Chadar trek is expensive.
Why Chadar is an expensive trek
Of all the treks in India, Chadar is the most expensive trek you will do. For example, even by Indiahikes standard, the Chadar trek comes to Rs 19,950 per person. Now what makes Chadar such an expensive trek? I spent some time finding out.
First, I found labor is expensive. Porter rates more than double in winter. And for a winter expedition you need more than the usual number of porters – just to carry the winter gears. Next, sourcing equipment is expensive in winter. Even mattresses cost Rs 100 a day to rent. But the biggest killer is food and fuel. Every food item has to be flown to Ladakh in winter. The government subsidizes food to an extent that is unbelievable. Even after the subsidy, food costs more than treble in winter. Fuel, like kerosene is frightfully expensive and worse, you need them in ample quantity just to stay warm. In the extreme cold cooking takes three times longer and naturally the fuel consumed is high. Another hidden killer I discovered is the stay in Leh. Hotels are mostly shut. Those that are open cost abnormally high – with central heating. A two day stay in Leh is 25% of the trek cost. Finally, considering the icy conditions a trek team to Chadar cannot be big to spread the costs. A team of 10-12 trekkers is considered very large. The inability to spread the cost of the trek over a larger number of trekkers increases the overall cost of the trek too.
For those venturing out to the Chadar on the Indiahikes exploratory trek, my only advice is to prepare for the trek and not to treat it as any other trek. The rewards from this trek are plenty to take – the white winter scenery in the Chadar canyons is once in a life-time experience. Experiencing this marvel is something people travel all over the world to witness. I hate to admit, but Chadar is actually a very glamorous trek to do.
The Indiahikes team for the Chadar trek this winter is by invitation only. To get an invite for the trek click on this link:
Chadar Trek Invitation
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Why you need to go on a trek date before getting married |
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Why you need to go on a trek date
before getting married
Arjun Majumdar talks about how a trek helps in making a better choice of a life partner.
Most couples who are thinking of getting married waste an enormous amount of time dating each other over expensive cups of coffee in the hope that they’ll get to know each other better.
I have bad news for you. You won’t.
In an artificial setting like a coffee shop, restaurant or a park, you only talk. Yet, we spend most of our married life doing things – making breakfast, going to office, sending the kids to school. And in doing these ordinary tasks we display our love, respect and consideration towards one other. It cements our bond and our marriage becomes stronger.
A trek date is an excellent way to check if your partner possesses qualities to make a marriage work. On a long trek – preferably over 5-6 days – the mask of the city wears off quickly and the real person surfaces. It makes sense to keenly observe this real person.
Here are a few points for you to observe:
- Is your partner capable of sticking to the discipline of a trek? A trek requires discipline in schedule, preparation and routine. So does life.
- Does your partner complain? A Himalayan trek is not easy. If your partner finds fault with things – from the difficulty of the terrain, to the quality of food; to the conditions of your tent, your partner is a whiner. If you have a complaining partner, your life is going to be similar.
- Does your partner cooperate? Like a trek, life is a series of cooperation – at home and work. If your partner cooperates with most situations it speaks of a healthy mind and heart.
- Does your partner make the best of situations? On a trek times will come when things go out of control. What does your partner do in such situations? Show frustration and complain or try to make the best of the situation? You need a life partner who can deal with bad situations in a cool and composed manner. A dose of humor is a bonus.
- Does your partner mingle and mix? When at camp does your partner spend time talking with others and learning from them or does your partner like to be alone. All of us like to be left alone at times – but mingling with others is part of our social world.
- Does your partner show consideration to the world? Does your partner pick up fallen chocolate wrappers on the trek? Does your partner have a kind word and gesture towards the guides and porters? A considerate partner is far more important in life than a loving partner.
- Does your partner ask people (however sweetly) to get things like tea, warm water, or dinner? It takes an effort to head to the kitchen for these things – but it also shows a human being who is self sufficient – someone who doesn’t order people around. A partner who orders is a menace for the future.
I hope these pointers will help you choose your partner wisely. Going on a “Trek Date” is a new way of seeing the most important person in your life.
Trek Dates are becoming increasingly popular among the urban youth. It is easy to see why. Trek Dates help unmarried young men and women find life partners. They get to meet prospective partners and also check their compatibility in real life situations – something modern coffee shops don’t allow. It is a welcome way of thinking.
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